Day 15

In Lahore

Monday as given over to sightseeing in Lahore.  We went to the museum where we saw ‘Kim’s Gun’ in the middle of the road outside.

Several of us determined to find the old museum building where Kipling’s father has been curator, and which featured as ‘The House of Wonders’ in Kim.

The building which it was supposed to be was just to the left of the new museum and was in a dreadful state, very ruinous, with most of the windows and doors boarded up

Monday 2nd October

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Zam Zama (Kim’s gun) in Lahore

We wandered around to the rear of the building, where there was an open door.  We pushed our way inside to reveal what once was a fine room. The cast iron pillars holding up the ceiling still having some of their decoration.

We were immediately confronted by a couple of soldiers who informed us that the building was being used by the army, and we were not allowed in. We went outside and tried to talk to the soldiers about it, but they could not speak English well so we got nowhere. Then came along an owner of a nearby store who spoke near faultless English and told us all about the building.

After the museum moved, the old building became The Tollington Market, which it remained as until it closed fairly recently. Although the name was changed to Tollinton, since this is easier for the local language.

Our informant had been active in the preservation movement for the building which had saved it from demolition, although its exact future was still uncertain. He produced a calendar which had been printed to raise funds for the appeal. When asked if he knew where we could get one he sent a boy off over a wall, who later reappeared with another calendar.  He gave them to us but would not accept any money.  This is typical of the spirit of the people generally throughout our trip to Pakistan.  The calendar shows old photographs of the building.

The Flag Lowering Ceremony

An Indian border guard near Lahore

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Later that evening we went to the Indian border to see the nightly flag lowering cemetery.

 

[to be completed]

A Pakistani border guard near Lahore

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